When shopping for clothes, I like to calculate “price per wear” by dividing the price of the item by how many uses it will get. That way, if I want an obscenely expensive coat or pair of shoes, I’ll justify it by assuring myself of its low price per wear.

Certain tasks in the kitchen are subject to a similar analysis: we evaluate the effort of the dish, and divide it by the number of uses we’ll get out of it (like freezing meals for later, or turning it into something else the next day). We use the formula to justify making things that we really want to make, but could easily pick up at a store — like pasta, sauces, bread, etc.

So for a few hours of effort, here’s what became of some delicious French bread we baked: crutons in a salad, toast for French onion soup, a vehicle for mopping up gravy, breakfast with orange marmalade, sandwich bread for lunch, and a side dish for two dinners. Definitely justifiable.

The recipe for the bread comes from Mark Bittman, who promises in How to Cook Everything that this is the easiest and best French bread you will ever make (just in case you still didn’t feel like baking it is justified). It takes a few hours to rise etc., but you’ll be reaping the benefits of your efforts for days.

Ingredients:
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tsp salt
1 tsp instant yeast
scant 1 1/2 cups warm water

Instructions:
In the container of a food processor, combine flour, salt and yeast. Process for five seconds, then slowly pour water into the processor while the machine is running. Process for about 30 seconds until the dough is in a shaggy ball, then transfer it into a large bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let it rise for about three hours. Sprinkle a little flour onto a counter, and divide dough into three balls, and let them rise covered for about 30 minutes. Then, flatten each ball and fold it over itself twice, sealing the seam. Spread a towel onto the counter and place the loaves into folded seams of the towel. Let them rise for another 1-2 hours. Preheat the oven to 450, and bake loaves on a lightly floured baking sheet for about 25-35 minutes, until crust is golden brown.